Here is the review and building article of this green version:
And here is the previous SBS DH88 Comet I built (Black Magic):
And yes, I had to build another one.
They are simply irresistible.
Quality, detail, fair price (for a resin kit), excellent
fit, perfect surface, good engineering, nice clear parts, sound photoetched
parts, well-printed and well-behaved decals, thin parts protected in their blocks
with smartly located "ears" and an iconic subject.
And they only require that you be careful, work carefully
and accurately and pay attention to what you are doing (i.e.: not watching the
Adams Family whilst you try to superglue the fuselage sides together.
Being this my second SBS DH88 (and fifth DH88 counting the 3
Airfix ones), here is my piece of advise to present and future builders:
Carefully wash the resin parts (as you would do with any kit
of any nature) to remove the release agent. You may wash them in a plastic tub
with a mild soup solution and a soft brush, still on their pouring blocks. DO
NOT LOSE ANY PART, watch out, they may detach from their blocks (or brake if
you are careless). Rinse them. Let them dry alone on a paper towel or similar.
(If you needed to be told this, and you didn't know, please go back to square
one and start to learn how to build kits, or you are here for a very exciting
ride, to say the least).
Detaching/cutting out
the resin parts out of their pouring blocks is easier than in all resin
kits I dealt so far with, but still requires accuracy, sharp tools and a steady
BUT GENTLE hand. I used a JLC thin saw (thanks once more, Steve Kallan!), a new
Xacto (replacing the blade frequently, it pays off) and a (new) razor blade. Do
not hurt yourself. Look at the provided leaflet, the gray areas are the ones to
be removed. Do not remove small parts from their blocks until you have painted
them and need them (seats may have their thin supporting buttresses removed,
but their stem still attached to the block to handle them and paint them).
Hot water -as usual- may be used to straighten a part (one
of my stab tips and a wingtip were very slightly curved). The process is
simple: you pour on hot water or dunk the bent section into it for a little
while (few seconds) and then simply straighten it with your fingers (do not
burn yourself).
Some of the cavities where the tongues go (yes, the parts
are keyed!) have a little leftover
resin. Either you carefully remove those tiny blobs or cut the tongue on the
part accordingly to clear them.
The resin employed on this kit is very forgiving: it cuts
superbly, flexes enough, can be sanded if needed (wear mask) and is rigid
enough to sustain manipulation; but, once more, be gentle and careful. It is
not magic resin after all.
And more specifically: on the fuselage sides, the recesses
for both compasses and both throttle quadrants are smaller than the thongs/pins
that should lock there. Either carefully enlarge the recesses or shave the
parts' prongs. These are small parts...do not lose them!
I had a hard time in the first model painting/assembling
then separately and later on trying to glue them on the fus. sides. This time I
glued them there and later added the photoetched throttles and painted the
compasses, before joining the fus. sides. By the way, the P.E. throttle levers
again will need those slots on the quadrant enlarged (a pointy sharp blade
should do).
Some details, if you want to bother with them:
-The tailskid in the original was slightly different.
-The original planes did not have the additional shoulder
seat straps, only lap belts. The model's details were probably based on the
restored red DH88, which shows a modern seat belt arrangement.
-Green had two smaller additional instruments/dials on top
of the coaming, on both sides of the central one which is provided with the
kit.
-You may like to add the counterweights of the rudder and
elevators, but have to be very subtle and careful, they should be really tiny.
Better leave them off than mar the parts or make bulky ones.
A very good and complete kit of high quality of a beautiful
and significant design. I usually build more esoteric and arcane things, but
this was absolutely ideal as a "vacation" from scratchbuilding :-)
I just found out looking at an archive movie that the regs' font on the Comets had round corners!
And may be another one in the future...
This one is also really nice. Only one is missing ;-)
ReplyDeleteWhich reference of colour did you use for the green ?
Hi Eric: just educated guess, as it many times has to be done with these sort of early types when no "hard evidence" is available. A few press descriptions mostly, but nothing really definitive. I am an artist (painter) by profession and tried several hues until I decanted for the one used.
DeleteHi Claudio,
DeleteThank you for your answer. I understand your answer as my main interest is for WW1 planes ;-)
I will start my series with the red one.
Beautiful work as usual Claudio; ditto on the shade of green; also-I've always been leery of resin kits because of the fear that the wings will droop over time like they're made of caramel. Any advice on how you can prevent this in your experience? thx!
ReplyDeleteHi there:
DeleteThanks for your kind words. I have several resin models, a couple from about may be ten years ago. No problems, but they are all relatively small models with no significant weight. It may be a different story with larger/heavier wings. I do not use resin for landing gears, though, ever, and many times place metal pins in strategic places if posible for joining the large parts.