Wings of Intent: Comper Swift De Havilland Gipsy engine - Arctic Decals/Dekno Models 1/72nd 3D-printed and resin kit

Another favorite from the Golden Age of Aviation: the minute and cute Comper Swift. I love this plane so much that this is my third, here are the other two:

Arctic Decals/Dekno Models:

https://wingsofintent.blogspot.com/2023/01/comper-swift-arctic-decalsdekno-joint.html

Aeroclub vac:

https://wingsofintent.blogspot.com/2024/04/comper-swith-aeroclub-172nd-vacuformed.html

This time another Arctic Decals / Dekno Models venture presenting the long nose version with the De Havilland Gipsy engine.

The package as in the previous release consists of finely printed smaller 3D-parts, the bigger parts being cast in resin, and accompanied of course with a comprehensive and beautifully printed decal sheet and good instructions. The boxing just released if for a machine –G-AWW- that competed in the 1932 King’s Cup coming in second place.

As Dekno produces the engine used by this plane, I bought it as an aftermarket addition and would like to install it in the model.

Set by Arctic Decals, as usual beautifully printed. It includes two types of "swirls" to simulate that effect on the nose of the model:

Parts well protected. Inspect the bags for smallish detached parts, just in case:

Clear instructions with many thorough explanations pertinent to decal and resin handling and other topics:

Main parts and some 3D-printed parts separated from their pouring blocks and cradles, carefully but without a problem. Most small parts in the 3D-printed cradles can be left attached to facilitate painting:

The wheel axle locations are drilled just a bit more to be able to pin them for painting:

As Dekno produces a beautiful 3D-printed Gipsy, I am mighty tempted to include it in the build, so I acquired one:

With some careful work it may be possible:

Some racers had a further aerodynamic refinement (absent in most Swifts) in the guise of very small teardrop fairings for the strut attachment to the fuselage fitting:
I make this type of fairing when needed from airfoil stock from the spares bin, gently rounding the tip and then slicing it:

I went for it (not that I recommend you to complicate a very simply and straightforward build with this). There are two options if you do this, as the nose already has a first cylinder molded in it. Option one: you could just simply sand the front of the engine to match it, only needing to remove the plug part that is normally the locating device:

The plug-in section is removed:

And option two: carving from inside the nose until the air intake is opened and there is some room for the engine to go in a little (not recommended, small and fragile part and needs careful work with bits and the rotary tool):

In any case, the nose part of the engine will have to be sanded a bit to allow it to move forward (dry run for the photo, of course):

The other side could be also opened. I you do just one side, due of course to the non-scale thickness of the fuselage resin, you will have to sand down the opposite (not shown) side of the engine to make it fit comfortably. I am not yet sure which way would I do this, one or two sides opened. By the way, discard the removed sections, and fabricate the partially curved covers from soda cans, an ideal material for this. Beware that the right side has an airscoop that will need to be replicated.

Parts are now carefully washed inside a mesh filter with lukewarm soapy water and rinsed carefully:

Let them dry by themselves...and don't lose any small parts! If you are doing the kit's scheme, you will need, as per instructions, the smaller vertical tail:

Firewall made of styrene sheet:

And remember it's "kinked" at the top:

A coat of primer revealed just a few pores on the leading edge that were quickly fixed:

The 3D-printing is of high definition, as you can see in the details of the really minute seat:

A bit of painting ensues. The tail feathers are primed to see if any pore was present, but none were found:

Following the instructions the inst. pan. is painted black:

And then the decal applied once the paint has dried:

The access panel is cut from a soda can. It's curved only on one side, at the back:

Time to deal with the interior:

The instrument panel and floor needed just a couple swipes with the sanding stick to allow a comfortable fit:

Dry run, no issues. If you are including the engine this way, it will need to be added before the fuselage halves are closed, and the not visible side of it sanded down to allow for the thickness of the resin. If you are opening both nose sides, then no need to do that:

The minute wheels are painted using round paper masks, but punched-out discs from a decal painted aluminium would do too:

The engine is sanded as explained and glued with 5-minute epoxy to have time to center it in both dimensions:

The fuselage is closed, the nose of the resin engine removed, and the nose tip glued:

One of the diagonal members of the structure that supports the engine needs to be added, but that will be done after painting, so this area can be stuffed with moist paper towel to prevent paint getting in it:

Before committing to adding details and painting, I am exploring a couple of alternative color schemes and regs. The scheme in the kit surely looks smart, but I may like something different. We'll see...

Coat of primer. Compare size with the Boeing Monomail also in progress: