From the archive (2009):
Fokker is a well-known name even for people not familiar
with the field of aviation.
Some of his designs (not actually his, by the way, but
mostly Reinhold Platz’s) are easily recognized (like the proverbial triplane); while
some others are not. The prolific family of civil transports that were created
by the Fokker industries (like the trimotors) somehow shadowed other unique
creations, like the machine presented in this article. It was one more step
upward and forward in a long line of designs that made a positive imprint in
the aviation collective.
Of the type introduced here only two machines were made
commissioned by the United
States, the design somehow failed to attract
other buyers, unusual for a Fokker. Of the two machines bought by the US, one was used for the coast-to-coast flight (oval
windows) and another was used as an ambulance after participating in a race
with the number 43 (square windows). The Fokker designation F.IV was changed to
T-2 and A-2 respectively for these planes.
Their story, especially the coast-to-coast flight, is very
interesting indeed, but too extensive to approach here. Give it a Google or,
better yet, go to
https://repository.si.edu/bitstream/handle/10088/18671/SAoF-0001.1-Lo_res.pdf?sequence=3&isAllowed=y
a whole Smithsonian publication on the subject with ALL you
need.
About vacuformed models in general:
Vacs are a different media, and as such have to be treated.
Think about the construction techniques for wood-and-canvas, metal, and
composite planes. Each requires its own approach, tools and procedures. Build
them with joy, accepting the bit of challenge, and don’t be afraid. It’s worth
it.
You will find good vac-building tutorials at the Khee-Kha
website, a source of excellent vacs:
A few words based on my own experience: vacuformed parts are
sometimes a bit flimsy and they don’t match as “perfectly” as the injected
ones. That’s the nature of the beast. The surfaces are usually not immaculate,
and present little pips and tiny depressions that are the marks of the molding
process. You will have to fill there and sand here, yes.
Just know it: it is going to be different. Not better, not
worse, just different.
Mark the lines surrounding the parts on the backing sheet
with a permanent marker –I use an extrafine Sharpie- it will be a very
important reference when cutting, and, most of all, when sanding: it will tell
you where to stop! Do not use a pencil, the line will fade and become invisible.
Later filling, sanding, priming and painting will make the line disappear.
Vacs demand attention and patience –by the way, any kind of
kit does-, but not supernatural powers. They require some planning and
pondering, some improvisation too and are excellent trainers for scratch
building. They make you learn and advance. Don’t worry, you may –and probably
will (I do)- make a few mistakes: glue-etched fingerprints, a furrow or two as
the cutter decides to go somewhere else, some bumps and some voids. Nothing to
worry about, all can be corrected –I do it all the time!-.
Learn from what it is available to you regarding vacs and
then adjust and adapt to your own preferences. Replace things when necessary,
be creative!
Now, for the real tamale, the model:
You get the vac parts, resin parts, metal parts, decals,
clear plastic, and a brief instruction sheet.
Although with blemishes here and there, the overall quality
is fair. The thickness of the styrene is good; the molds are not perfect but
good enough to work with, some experience is needed to build a good model. You
don’t have to be a master modeler, just have some building experience.
At almost 25 meters of original span the 1/72 replica is not
a small model, probably not the very first vac you would like to try. The photo
sequence will illustrate the steps I took in building the Fokker. The
manufacturer approached the wing inventively as two upper and lower halves, a
spar (the instructions wisely advise to double it with scrap material) and a
wrap-around leading edge. Two images illustrate this. I laid down the spar on
the lower half, and carefully dry fitted the upper half a number of times
sanding the upper part of the spar until a good fit was achieved. I diverted
from the instructions and joined the halves at the “truncated” lipped leading
edge which has a step for the “real” leading edge to lock on. Don’t worry, look
at the images. Once this was set, I glued the trailing edge which revealed a
slight difference in length that was filled with putty. The wing tips required
some putty too. I would recommend give the upper wing surface more curvature
(just pressing with your fingers) to improve a its appearance. Beware that the
upper wing has the fuel caps molded in. Don’t sand them away –or if you do, add
them later as small circles.
The fuselage side windows were cut out and a few blemishes
dealt with. I had to supplement the area that would be in contact with the wing
–see image-, since it is a wee-bit curved in the kit, while the original
airfoil bottom was flat (from roughly ahead of the main spar backwards).
I opened a few vents and cut out the top of the fuselage
were the wing sits in order to have comfortable access to the interior later.
The front pilot area was hollowed next. All this without joining the fuselage
halves yet.
Since the T-2 was a distance-duration record plane, it had
two interchangeable pilot positions, one outside in the left fuselage front –the
engine was aside on the right- and one inside in the left cabin, behind a huge
extra fuel tank, so you have too areas that need detail attention. The resin
and metal parts cover these two areas to a good degree. You get, among other
parts, an instrument panel for the cabin position, but you could scratch the
one for the cockpit, although it is located so far at the front and under the
cowl that is probably not going to be visible. The reason of such advanced
position is to clear the movement of the big control wheel. You may like to add
one or two bulkheads to the aft fuselage, which will improve its rigidity when
closed, and help with sanding of the seams. The front upper part of the cowling
had in the real plane a panel join at the middle, so you don’t have to putty
that one, sanding will suffice. Beware that there is also a laced seam at the
fuselage bottom, from the cabin end to the tail skid, so don’t putty that area
either. I used to replicate that lace a photoetched part.
I opted not to use the resin part provided for the radiator
because it was not good, but instead sanded the fuselage front flat and added a
scratchbuilt part. Some other left-over photoetched parts were used here and
there to enhance the detail overall. As with any other model you can go bananas
or make it simple, it is all up to you. Do what makes you happy. The landing
gear was glued –it is provided as a metal casting with even three tiny metal
rods to detail it-
Once the model was primed I added a few more photoetched
parts, handles and fittings, and the cables and levers system underneath the
fuselage, control horns. Now painting was approaching. Beware that the wing was
ply-covered, light in color, clear varnished and with the grain running
chordwise –that is for you fledglings in the direction the planes advances-. I
couldn’t get a satin or gloss olive drab for the rest of the plane, so I went
with a Tamiya flat one that later was Future-enhanced in order to restore some
shine. I never seem to come to terms with Tamiya paints, which gave a lot of
trouble in many ways, while the Model Master acrylics behaved properly. Then
the controls were rigged and decals applied. Wrong, since the cables on the aft
fuselage side have to go through the decals. So you know, first decals and then
rigging. While we are on the decal subject I have to say they are superb, but
you have to be careful and especially cautious about the golden rims that
surround the windows, since if you are too enthusiastic cutting or sanding the
windows out, then the rims will be too small to reach the borders. Although
they have a good register as a whole, I cut all panels separate. The wing round
insignias are of slightly less quality. Clear plastic windows were inserted
from inside (remember I cut open the roof of the cabin?) and some structure was
added that is visible from outside, as well as the instrument panel
corresponding to that section. Although the provided resin exhausts were sort
of ok, I made my own ones since it was an easy task (some fine metal filament
wrapped around aluminum tube). The long boom for the Pitot tube was made of
wood as the original, a photoetched scrap added. It is rigged to the wing by
four stays. Little thingies here and there like the two Venturis on the side of
the cabin, wing tie-downs on the wing tips, etc. and presto!
Three other liveries can be made if you modify the kit: the
A-2 ambulance –red crosses on white circles-, the racer –different A.S. number
and “43” at least on the fuselage sides- and the same plane which two photos
show in plain finish (most likely clear-varnished light-colored wood for the
wing and doped fabric for everything else but the fuselage front. Bear in mind
that the ailerons were fabric covered, so they should be painted of whatever
color you are using for the fuselage.
The main difference is that these versions had square
windows in a different arrangement. Other details: the exhaust pipes run up
vertically. They had sometimes two wheels on each side of the axle. There are
also a few minor details like the stirrups and changes in the cowl vents and
bumps.
On a research note page three in the above-mentioned
Smithsonian paper seems to erroneously describe the plane in the photo on page
3 as the T-2 used in the non-stop flight, but, given its squared windows, cowl
details and vertical exhaust it is probably A.S. 64234, the A-2 painted with #43
for the 1923 St. Louis Air Meet.
Oh man, this one was fun.
That’s all, folks!
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